Taz - Update 3

What a fantastic country! I’ve spent the day driving around between historic Richmond , gorgeous countryside, and then vast expanses of water, spanned by low rise bridges, and the most fabulous beach I have even seen.

Richmond is a parody of itself, full of chintz tea rooms and sweet shops, model villages and a duck pond, but the ancient churches and the cemetery, the oldest in Australia , moving and atmospheric.

On through Sorrell and down to seven mile beach, which, so far, is the best beach I have ever seen!  Miles and miles of unbroken sand, enormous shells, backed by the bluest sea, gentle waves, surf waves in the bends, and pine forests and sand dunes as far as the eye can see. with the hills of the Derwent valley looming overhead.

This country is such a mystery-one minute its all English colonial buildings, and rolling hills/green pastures-even cows and sheep-farm  shops and fruit farms, and then there’s spectacular beaches, surf, and pine forests….even the beach changes-the pine forests gave way to sand dunes and what looked like a Christmas tree farm!

 

 

As I type, I am listening to a severe weather and fire warning for the weekend-not rain, but heat. I don’t understand the science, but the temp here goes up suddenly, its going to be nearly 40 degrees this weekend-from an average of 20-24 the last few days.

It’s typical of Tasmania -nothing is consistent, from the weather to the landscape.

 

SAT-yes, it’s SO hot!  

 

Its now 40 degrees, about midday , and the pavements are melting, as I am!

I have retreated back to the ‘flat’ for a restorative cuppa, post Salamanca market forage (brilliant fruit, loads of free tasters, had to go back again, like Lewes farmers market but massive) and now reckon I will have to take off up the mountain in search of cool air.

OMG I have just driven up a mountain!

No one told me the road went to the summit-it’s higher than Ben Nevis !

My ears popped, but the road twists and is so narrow once I’d started I couldn’t turn round…I have never been so scared in my life.

So that’s the most fantastic beach and now the most fantastic mountain I have ever been on/up/seen, and all in the space of 48 hours-this is such a weird country.

There is masses of open space, its so quiet compared to Sydney , but the scenery is marvellous, and the people very friendly-they love my English accent.

I’m too exhausted to risk getting in the car again today….my nerves are shredded, but it was worth it.

The heat is still phenomenal, about 35 at 6pm , I shall have to go to the nearby MacDonald’s for a restorative ice cream (and use their free wi-fi!)

Taz update 2

My feet are killing me, I thought I was fit until I can to Australia, but even here, where there isn’t such an obvious health culture, the locals reckon a short walk is about 4km…

So this morning I took the ‘urban’ walk following the River Derwent tributary, along which the early settlers ‘settled’, taking in the old warehouses and houses, the notorious ‘female factory’-where the female convicts were appallingly treated, and ending up at the cascade brewery, which rises spectacularly above the foothills of mount nelson.

There were blackberries/apples/flowers everywhere and also hills-lots of hills!!

But then, the views were spectacular over the harbour/city.

This afternoon I wandered around the city’s historical buildings. Despite the colonial legacy, I particularly love the thirties architecture which pops up unexpectedly between the older buildings.

Then round to the Traversing the Antarctic exhibition in the Tasmanian Art Gallery, which was fascinating. The history of Hobart/Tasmania and the Antarctic was new to me and its gripping-I hadn’t realised how much originated from here, and how much still goes on in terms of Antarctic exploration/sciences.

The massive Antarctic Southern Explorer survey vessel is currently in the harbour, she’s enormous, and I understand now what Andrew means when he says it’s impossible to walk about on board-it looks as if there is a factory on the deck, with cranes, rigs, etc. Lit up at night she’s so impressive.

As well as the marine history, I love the way this city revolves around art, there are galleries, much aboriginal/tribal displays, and arts and crafts communities/exhibitions everywhere I turn.

I’m still absorbed over by yesterday’s experience-MONA is without doubt the most bizarre and gripping ‘museum’  I have ever visited, and if anyone gets a chance to see the Wim Delouve exhibition anywhere, I’d recommend it-its creatively very different-though whether its art or not is up for debate.
See also  http://www.flickr.com/photos/jlpt/5745792839/
and         http://www.broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/arts-and-entertainment/article/wim-delvoye-guy-who-made-cloaca-mona

I wandered up to the cenotaph (on top of another hill, of course) this evening to see the setting sun over the Derwent River, every evening the light looks different over the water, captured by the hills on either side of the harbour and reflecting of the islands in the bay.

Like Sydney, its taken time to get a feel for Tasmania and Hobart-it’s far more of a change than I expected (luckily, it’s warming up, the forecast is for hotter and hotter weather,  and it has, fingers crossed, stopped raining!).

There is a genuinely English feel to the place, the sense of history is overwhelming, but also there’s a strong sense that this still Australia.

The passion for the sea, and the Antarctic explorations/explorers, is everywhere, there are moving sculptures/memorials on every corner, from cute huskies to abstract shapes, and in contrast, also beautiful murals/artwork up every road (even the electricity substations are painted).

Wednesday.

Today was what the locals call a ‘lazy sun’ day-which means the sun was stronger than it seems, as I’ve found out-yep, sunburnt again!

I hired a bike, to give my feet a rest …and now all of me hurts. But I’ve seen so much more of the countryside and small town Tasmania. The sense of Englishness vanishes and suburbia becomes increasingly like small town USA, even down to the malls and the trailer parks.

But there are also quaint little beaches, with tea rooms and beach stands, road side fruit sellers, and lots of garden centres and nurseries…

The towns string out along the river as it winds inland, the intercity cycle path links them by following the route of what seems to be a disused railway.

It’s a legal requirement here to wear a helmet-which came with the bike, and proved a slight challenge, but needs must…the police here are very keen on on-the spot fines, so not worth taking the chance-apparently it’s a fine to even cross the road in the wrong place or without a green light, whoops!!

I’m currently chilling out watching Sherlock Holmes-there’s a lot of UK TV here, which is handy for the evenings, and this ‘flat’ feels easier to relax in, I can come in, have a bath/make salad, or even cook-I’m not wasting my free masterchef potatoes-very yummy with the free onion and garlic, bless them.

Thursday

So far, so good-I have driven a fair few miles today, even up and down a windy mountain track.

We, the car and I, didn’t get off to the best of starts-having walked down to the local offices, queued and got my key, it was an automatic…so I went back in and handed them the key back. Luckily, they were very helpful, located one lurking manual at the airport, and gave me a lift out to collect it. And left me there, doh!

So by the time I’d negotiated the highway and Derwent Bridge back, I’d pretty much

got the hang of the roads.

Needless to say, I got lost immediately, but had a very pleasant picnic at Taroona, sitting in the shadow of the famous historical Shot Tower, a tower from the factory originally making shot for firearms. Wonderful gardens, in full flower, lovely views over the bay, no problem.

I then took off on my original destination-the Mount Nelson ‘walking track’ through the Truganini reserve, a wildlife reserve dedicated to the aboriginal people.

It’s very steep!!!!

I fell, stumbled, crawled and clambered up vertical rocks, through bush, past lizards, butterflies, flowers, weird berries-very creepy, if it hadn’t been for the few people I passed both ways, I’d have been even more scared than I was.

And then I drove up the mountain to take some pictures, cos the views were so splendid…yes, I did know you could drive, but I wanted to do the bush walk, as a change to the city/waterfront.

Out and about in Hobart

Tassie update.

 

This place is too English-it’s a stunning reminder of how Australian history is British, and like living in a museum!

The weather, alas, is also British-it’s been overcast and showery since I arrived, but on the plus side, apparently it’s been so stormy in Sydney there’s been flash floods…so maybe I had a lucky escape.

After the excitement of Saturday, Sunday passed quietly, just walking around the parks/buildings/botanical gardens (SO English-the roses and fuchsias are stunning)…the waterfront is a mixture of working harbour-mainly marine laboratories, and yacht clubs/little covers-with marine cottages selling antiques, etc, and tearooms….

There is a stunning avenue in one park with an oak/pine avenue where every tree is a memorial to ww1 soldier-gorgeous but there were a lot of them!!

 

Yesterday was great-I caught the harbour ferry inland for half an hour to MONA-the Museum of Old and New Art. The ferry ride itself was worth the money-it winds up past the hills, like a scene from a western, past tributaries, seals and dolphins swim everywhere despite the lurking refineries on one side-under enormous bridges(bigger than the Sydney bridge, apparently) and to the museum, in caves in the hill alongside a winery.

 

I spent the whole day there, I was fascinated by the bizarre eclectic collection ( see online if you’re interested, esp. the Wim Deluve exhibition)…Wim’s machines which mimic the human digestive system are originally disturbing, challenging, and then gripping-they eat real food from the canteen, have live bacteria, and yes, do excrete like humans!!

 

But alongside Damien Hirst et al is also historical artefacts, Mummies, and sandstone carvings…although my personal favourite were the living artworks, esp Tattoo Tim, who is a licensed work of art-which he says is very tiring!!

 

The light here in the evenings is stunning, the sun sets over the waterfront, falling from behind the surrounding mountains onto the sea, it’s obviously an evening tradition to wander along the harbour front and up past the historic buildings of the city-one I too am a fan off!!

 

I do wish the weather would improve though-it’s not too bad, about 19, but after Sydney , I’m freezing-still, easier on the body, my feet/eyes/sunburn etc have recovered in the cool…its my mind that craves more sun.

 

There’s tons more art galleries/museums/walks to cover, so I’m going to explore those today-my feet will be grateful when I hire a car though…my legs ache every morning, doh!

Hobart - It doesn't get tougher than this!

Today being Saturday, I went to the world famous Salamanca Market in Hobart. The first hour or two passed pleasantly eating all the free tasters-the fudge is gorgeous, as are the blueberries/boysenberries, in any shape or form, fruit to jam to cake…its like a gigantic farmers/crafts market here.

I then found that to one side where 4 coloured tents containing 4 coloured teams, and a film crew. Masterchef Oz are filming the Tassie special (to go out later during the current series, apparently). I hung around watching, only to be grabbed by a member of the film crew who’d heard me talking ‘English’.

He spent ages talking to me asking how popular the show was in the UK, and then I met the judges (albeit quickly), the one with his arm around me was lovely, very kind and seemed genuinely friendly.

Watching the film crew follow the competitors around the market was hilarious, as was watching the way the final sequence was filmed around each team, with the famous clock simply being reset each time.

And having cheered on each team, and waved the judges off to their private lunch somewhere, and despite not actually buying anything from any four stands, I was then  handed bags of free food…and by chance I have a cooker/microwave here.

I doubt my moment of fame will actually end up being broadcast, but it was an experience being part of the show.

Hobart itself is more English than England. Everywhere I look is English roses, country cottages and bakeries.

It’s all somewhat disconcerting, like walking around in a living museum (if it wasn’t for the modern dress/traffic). The architecture is amazing, and the waterfront gorgeous, with the views of the islands, and Mt Wellington towering above.

I have a selection of art galleries and museums, walking tours and gardens to trawl around-may have to buy more plasters for my poor feet. Still at least this ‘room’ has a bath.

Thursday - last day in Sydney for a while

My last day, on foot as was the first, although the weather is much better –the first day was the only bad day weather wise, bar the odd massive, but short lived, storms.

So off to the fish markets-interesting, though not a patch on Hong Kong -and then round to potter along Pyrmont, admiring the colonial buildings, and to the city, to see the impressive Queen Victoria Buildings . There is history everywhere here.

The Art Gallery of NSW was fascinating-I took the free highlights tour so I could learn about the history of Australian art, and found out that it originates from Britain , like most things. Interestingly the aboriginal and tribal art section was separate, vibrant, and absorbing.

I had to leave after a few hours as the air con was on and it was freezing-an unusual experience since arriving here.

Wandered through the botanical gardens and back up Elizabeth Street right through the heart of the city. Alas, am now surrounded by clothes trying to work out why, having finished tons of moisturiser, etc, and not brought anything, I can’t get everything into the case-surely what came out must go back in!

Off to Tasmania tomorrow, nervous, but excited, though I could happily stay in Sydney longer, it’s been great.

Wednesday

The weather is so gorgeous-I sat on the river ferry to Parminetta admiring the river birds, and then over to Watsons Bay through the beaches and harbour. Walked over the headland to see the original lighthouse/cottages/defences etc and stared out to see imagining all the shipwrecks between the heads over the years.

Walked through Hyde Park to see the Anzac Memorial and down past the colonial buildings of the state-just like London , and back through the botanical gardens-there is so many sides to this park-I see a different part each time I walk through.

Finished by sitting on the harbour ferry to Darling Harbour watching the setting sun over the city, (and having a laugh as half a Japanese tour party got left behind at a jetty-how mean of me)-the skyline is spectacular, the bridge and the opera house glow differently each time, and the light here is wonderful.

Tuesday

 

Began the day by getting lost, but having a fantastic view of the Queen Mary cruise ship-too big for the harbour, she’s in the neighbouring wharf and towers over the circular quays and the parks.

The ferry took me to double bay, where I found myself stranded, but a friendly local guided through the winding steps past the homes of the rich and famous down to Rushcutters Bay yacht club/park-very exclusive!

Then another friendly local escorted me back to the city-everyone is so fit here, they walk/run/surf/cycle-oh, they say, it’s an easy walk, and they mean an hour and hilly!!

Along past the buildings in Hyde Park-all very British-and then I had to have some sea air…so an afternoon strolls along the surf and sand at Manly.

That’s what I love about this city-you can go from historic buildings to the beach in less than an hour, it’s wonderful.

This evening I watched the lights go on over the harbour on the ferry, and then saw the fireworks in Darling Harbour-quite by chance from the boat-a magical moment.

 

Another day, another ferry-not sure what day, but its Monday.

Took the inland ferry all the way up to Parrametta, the original settlers town. The scenery is completely different, the river runs up through naval bases, used and disused, narrow channels full of birds and greenery (and enormous eels) and into the town which looks not much changed from the original 1700s (bar MacDonald’s)

The heritage trail around the old colonial buildings is really atmospheric.

The ferry back was so windy it felt just like being in England! (Attached is pic of me trying not to get swept overboard as we come into the harbour!)

Spent a very pleasant evening watching the bats (flying foxes) swooping over the botanical gardens, and the caught the night ferry up through the city lights to darling harbour. Like being in a gigantic Santa’s grotto.

Manly Beach-behave like a local Sunday!

 

Today being Sunday, all the locals go to the beach, me being no exception!! Weather is gorgeous, but, like yesterday, an afternoon thunderstorm, ( Florida Keys weather)

Off on the Manly ferry in blazing sunshine, this time with my flipflops and bikini, and enjoyed the Australian Open Surf competition

I had no idea what is going on, the commentary could have been in a foreign language, but it was fun/spectacular/noisy and buzzing.

Everyone is so friendly, one couple spent ages moaning about politics and the economy, bit too gossipy for us reserved Brits at times…

The ferry ride back in the setting sun was wonderful, it feels like a beach holiday at times rather than a city, but the heat makes it hard to do much else, and the surf scenery is so unlike England anyway it s got to be done.

Sydney day 4-the bondi ‘burn’

 

And I was so pleased with myself yesterday too! Alas, today, despite vast amounts of suncream, I didn’t cover up or stay in the shade enough, and am now a very fetching shade of red.

Tho I reckon sand burn as much as sun burn is to blame.

Bondi beach was great-this time better than expectation, everyone reckons its too touristy, but it was quiet today, and seemed very atmospheric, the thirties buildings and the local kids having life saving/surfing lessons  very Oz like to me.

I’m adjusting to the basic necessity of having to get trains, and, unfortunately, buses, as this is a city not a town, but Bondi is actually a suburb, feels odd, like London having Cornwall instead of Camden .

Trekked the coastal path along the surf beaches to Clovelly, up and down headlands and, bizarrely, through a cliff top cemetery…and then trekked it back-seemed like a good idea at the time……..

I was so hot when I got back to Bondi I stripped off and ran into the water-only to find out the hard way (again) why locals only surf in the waves and swim in the fenced off tidal pools at either end of the beach.

My feet were swept out from under me by the current in only about 6 inches of water! So I cooled off rather quicker than anticipated.

Now I know what they mean by dangerous rips-I just thought they were further out, not by the sand, no wonder every beach has a life saving school for local kids as its main building.

I made my way back to the city in the most beautiful skies, and walked back from the station through the suburbs-very attractive colonial style avenues and leafy boulevards, and joined the Friday families watching the red sunset over the city (the hostel is at the top of the hill, looking down-good spot for views, bad for the legs, mine are killing me!

The heat is also a killer-if it stays this hot I’ll ferry hop tomorrow, otherwise I’ll go to the markets –there is so much to do and so little time now I’ve got a feel for everything!

The long days are also tiring-it gets light by 6am and isn’t dark until 9pm , which is weird without a spring preview, but I don’t want to stop!! I’m going with early nights and hoping my body can keep up!!

Tis great here though, I was chatting to an English woman on the train who has emigrated here, and she said it takes a while to adjust but the Oz culture is so laid back it kicks in and takes you over, and I understand now what she means.

 

 

Day 5

 

Another day, another beach, but this time I got the ferry out to Watson’s Bay, one of the two ‘Heads’ which frame the harbour, and a very different sea-no surf, just gentle waves and sandy little covers, hundreds of boats of all shapes and sizes-the Oz weekend pastime of the rich.

The ferry rides are fantastic, I’ve seen the city skyline/bridge from so many angles this way, and, like the private vessels, and they come in different varieties-from the old steamer boats to the fast catamaran shuttle.

The weather is bizarre. I wandered round the Saturday markets at The Rocks this morning to avoid the heat-think Camden lock in a historic setting (The Rocks is the part of circular quays where the original settlers settled), great fun-and very British.

Then took the ferry at lunchtime, when quieter, and cooler on the water…set off to explore the bay, only to get caught in the massive thunderstorm.

I took shelter in the only place, under a rock overhang on some steps down to a nudist beach-luckily, another tourist, a very friendly US traveller joined me, and we passed a pleasant hour chatting and gazing out through the overhang/waterfall/palm trees, whilst the storm raged!! It felt as if I was in the south pacific.

But eventually the black clouds cleared as suddenly as they arrived, and the sun shone even brighter, and the evening was glorious.

The city in the setting sun is so spectacular. I wandered around the gardens (the bats were swooping, amazing) and the quays watching the skies and the view, and the city lights go on. I can now see why people fall in love with this city.

Sydney day 1

 

If it is ‘day 1’-to be honest, jet lag has finally set in, its now 8.30pm here, I left hong kong late yesterday then, had no sleep on the plane, though I have seen more films in the last 5 days than in years! (can recommend Margin Call)

I got the train as the transfer was going to take hours (roads here apparently a clogged, everyone goes by public transport), but my arrival at the hostel didn’t begin well.

This hotel really is a hostel, unlike Hong Kong , alas, this is a real old school backpackers place)…………

 But it is cheap, brekkie , if good, is a bonus, as food here seems extortionate, and not too far out from the city, so, so be it.

I managed to drag myself out, as far as and around Darling Harbour, which looks suspiciously like the Thames-in contrast to Hong Kong, its seeming rather too familiar ,though the colonial buildings remind me of Maine…I guess the Oz atmosphere will kick in when I get my bearings.

Today, I feel as if both.body and spirit are bruised/battered, this must be the come down after the exhilaration of Hong Kong .

 

 

Day 2

 

A long sleep, plentiful (if basic) brekkie, and I’m more with it. Luckily, the weather is bad by Oz standards, only 24 and overcast,.

I’ve walked miles, beginning with the freebie shuttle bus to Circular Quays (quicker to walk) then to the Opera House.

The Opera House, like most landmarks, seems very small in contrast to expectations, but during the day, viewed from all angles, it grew on me-very strange building!

The Botanical Gardens are a delight! Beautiful flowers, lovely parks, then the contrast of the bats and spiders.

Bats  have taken up residence in the trees, and are fascinating, very creepy, make a bizarre noise, and Weird birds are everywhere, descending to take any food from anything and anywhere, very disconcerting.

On round to ‘The Rocks’, and then up and over the Harbour Bridge . Not literally-the bridge climb is beyond me, but I walked over the main structure (and back1!)

MacDonalds ice creams here are 50cents, so somewhat dearer than Hong Kong , but still cheap by comparison with everything else…I finally found a supermarket rather than a very very expensive spar shop this evening, so have stocked up on picnic stuff..

I ended up back around Darling Harbour , and yes, the spirit of Oz is here, by the sea.

Everyone is extremely friendly, keen to help, genuinely very kind-I managed to get bitten (of course) and within minutes a park guide whipped out some after bite.

I’m still wiped out-I reckon this is jet lag/time differences over the last 6 days catching up with me, off to bed.

 

Day 3

 

To paraphrase a Chinese proverb, a day that begins badly will end well.

Today began badly as I slept appalling, too exhausted to sleep sensation all night.

It’s been a beautiful day, blue skies, and thankfully a wind, as it’s about 30 degrees-so I brought a weekly travel pass and went off on the ferry to Manly, apparently the thing to do.

And it was gorgeous, in every way-the beaches were fantastic, the surf amazing, walks from cove to cove, all well equipped with free water, loos etc , and the people are so kind and friendly.

The only problem, having come from our winter, is the heat, but I reckon I’m not too burnt (us older and wiser women always go equipped with hat, sun cream and cover-up)

I really feel like I’m in Australia now-it’s the sun and sand, and the healthy lifestyle/sports-everyone walks, runs, or swims all the time, the place is full of bronzed sculptured bodies,  but its also so laid back here.

The ferries are great, this trip is one of the longer ones, so I got fantastic views of the city and the harbour, there are tons of islands and beaches, so I m going to ferry hop continually!

I have found one aspect of Oz life out the hard way –the spiders (Annie,  be warned!)-if you go of the beaten track anywhere, wave something in front of you (I had wondered why people carried sticks)-the golden orb sits in a wonderful gold web when the sun is out, but its not that easy to spot unless you are staring at it, and they are everywhere!!

And I’ve learnt to be careful where I sit-I sat on a bench walking the cove path admiring the eastern tiger dragons (like lizards) only to find one trying to attack my feet-luckily I had trainers on!

And one more downside to the heat-anyone know how to put sun cream on your back when travelling alone??  Luckily I’m not burnt as I covered up, but it’s a problem………

But overall this sun, sand and surf culture will do me fine!!

Well, where to start! I didn’t stop for a sit down in hong kong, let alone a posting, sorry, but it was the only way to fit in as much as possible.

I have walked miles, through street markets, night markets, temples, upmarket shopping malls, colonial buildings, glass high rises, you name it, I’ve walked it, even up to the peak (far too long a queue for the tram).

I’ve got so familiar with the star ferry I feel like a local, although I did try the underground, for a change (boring)…

This is such a weird mix of cultures, the Chinese ethnic food stalls mingle with marks and spencers, maconalds are everywhere, but so are the street food vendors-alas, mainly meat, I have become very attached to the raspberry sundae from the us fast food chain, and lost count of the ice creams-at only 10p, a bargain.

Everything is cheap, or free, even the botanical gardens, zoo, and parks, with some fantastic animals. Flowers are everywhere, with the Chinese new year decorations still up so the city glitters and glows, neon lights every second.

The oddest sights have been the fish  swimming around, waiting to be killed, and locals doing tai-chi in the parks-of which there are millions.

And despite an obsession with hygiene, the locals spit-very disconcerting, this just sums up the mixture between old and new cultures in all aspects.

The skylines are breathtaking, the masses of humanity also breathtaking, I wouldn’t want to be here in the heat of the summer (been about 18 here, about right).

I doubt photos will sum up the fantastical, vegas like nature of the city, nor the kindness and helpfulness of the people, I’ve loved it here!